Monday 16 December 2013

SISTEM SEDERHANA SKALA 1/4

 Untuk anda ingin belajar menjahit tetapi tidak memiliki watu untuk mengikuti kursus, anda bisa belajar secara otodidak di rumah. berikut ini langkah-langkah membuat pola dasar untuk pakaian wanita dengan sistem sederhana. Mudah-mudahan tulisan ini bisa anda pelajari dengan mudah. Ukuran dibawah ini hanya sebagai contoh, anda bisa mengganti dengan ukuran anda sendiri. Untuk mengambil ukuran anda bisa melihat artikel cara mengukur badan

 UKURAN: 
  1. Lingkar Leher = 36 cm
  2. Lingkar Badan = 88 cm
  3. Lingkar pinggang = 60 cm
  4. Panjang Muka = 30 cm
  5. Lebar Muka = 31 cm
  6. Tinggi Dada = 14 cm
  7. Panjang Sisi = 17 cm
  8. Panjang Bahu = 12 cm
  9. Lebar Punggung = 33 cm
  10. Panjang Punggung = 36 cm
  11. Jarak Dada = 17cm




KETERANGAN POLA BADAN MUKA: 
A – B = 1/6 Lingkar leher + 2 cm
B – C = Panjang Muka
C – D = A – E = ¼ Lingkar badan + 1cm
A – A1 = 1/6 Lingkar leher + 0,5 cm
A1 – A2 = Panjang bahu
A2 – A3 = turun 4 cm
B – B1 = 5 cm
B1 – B2 = ½ Lebar muka
C – C1 = ¼ Lingkar pinggang + 1 + 3 cm
C – C2 =1/10 Lingkar pinggang + 1 cm
C2 – CC3 = 3 cm
C1 – C4 = naik 1,5 cm
C4 – K = Panjang sisi
C – M = Tinggi dada
M – O = ½ Jarak dada



KETERANGAN POLA BADAN BELAKANG:
 A – B = 1,5 – 2 cm
B – C = Panjang punggung
C – D = A – E = ¼ Lingkar badan – 1 cm 
A – A 1 = 1/6 Lingkar leher + 0,5 cm
A1 – A2 = Panjang bahu
A2 – A3 = Turun 3 cm
B – B1 = 10 cm
B1 – B2 = ½ Lebar punggung
C – C1 = ¼ Lingkar pinggang – 1cm+3cm
C – C2 =1/10 Lingkar pinggang
C2 – C3 = 3 cm
C1 – K =Panjang sisi 


Pengetahuan dasar yang tidak kalah pentingnya adala cara mengukur badan supaya kita mendapatkan ukuran-ukuran untuk pakaian yang mau kita jahit. Berikut adalah beberapa bagian penting untuk di ukur yang harus kita ketahui

1. Lingkar Dada (LD)
Sekeliling dada diukur dengan meteran dimulai dari bagian tengah dada sampai ke belakang (bagian punggung) lalu kembali ke tengah dada, ingat! Meteran harus melalui bawah ketiak

2. Lingkar pinggang
Jangan lupa, pinggang harus kita ikat terlebih dahulu dengan tali ban atau karet elastic dan jangan dilepas hingga pengukuran selelsai. Ukurlah lingkar pinggang dengan mengukur sekeliling pinggang

3. Lingkar Pinggul  1 (Lingkar Hip)
Ukurlah sekeliling
pinggul anda tepat melewati bagian pinggul yang paling besar, sisakan 2 cm.Lihat gambar no.4.

4. Tinggi pinggul (Tinggi Hip)
Ukurlah kebawah dari pinggang sampai pinggul yang paling besar tadi (no.3)

5. Lingkaran tengah hip
Adalah lingkar pinggul yang diukur pada posisi tepat antara bagian lingkaran  panggul dan lingkaran pinggang.Biasanya diukur  dari pinggang  8-10 cm dari pinggang.Lihat gambar no.6

6. Panjang punggung
Diukur dari pangkal leher (belakang leher, pas tonjolan tulang), sampai ke bagian pinggang(pas tali diikat).

7. Panjang keseluruhan
Panjang punggung ditambah panjang dari pinggang sampai yang dikehendaki.

8. Panjang Rok
Diukur dari pinggang sampai bagian yang dikehendaki.

9. Panjang lengan
Ukurlah dari pangkal lengan sampai pergelangan lengan

10.Lebar punggung
Ukurlah dari pangkal lengan sebelah kiri sampai pangkal lengan sebelah kanan bagian belakang.

11.Lebar dada
Ukurlah bagian depan, dari pangkal lengan sebelah kiri sampai sebelah kanan.

12. Lingkar lubang lengan
Ukurlah sekeliling lengan dengan melewati pangkal lengan depan, pangkal lengan belakang, kembali lagi ke bahu.Ditambah 1 cm.

13.Panjang bahu
Diukur dari bagian samping leher sampai ke pangkal lengan.

Seperti halnya dengan belajar yang lain, untuk belajar menjahit pakaian diperlukan ketekunan dan kesabaran. Mungkin pada mulanya anda akan berpikir atau merasa tidak punya bakat, merasa lelah dan bosan karena belajar tidak bisa-bisa lalu menyerah begitu saja.

Sebetulnya untuk bisa mejahit pakaian tidak ada istilah tidak punya bakat, keuletan dan kemauan untuk belajar menjahit pakaian adalah kunci keberhasilan supaya anda menjadi mahir dalam menjahit pakaian.

Ada beberapa tips dalam mempelajari cara menjahit pakaian. Mudah-mudahan tips ini bisa menjadi bekal anda untuk belajar.

    Untuk pemula dan sebagai awal belajar menjahit, buatlah model-model pakaian yang sederhana dan tidak terlalu ribet supaya tidak terjadi banyak kesalahan yang akhirnya akan membuat anda kehilangan semangat.

Baju anak-anak dan pakaian-pakaian santai bisa kita jadikan untuk bahan praktek. Pergunakan kain yang murah, atau kain-kain bekas pembungkus seperti menggunakan karung terigu misalnya atau kain-kain kiloan untuk menghemat harga.

    Belajar dari orang yang sudah profesional, atau anda bisa mempelajari secara diam-diam dengan menjahitkan satu baju ke mereka untuk anda pelajari, teknik jahitannya seperti apa, bagian mana saja yang harus diberi lapisan dst.

    Kunci utama harus tetap semangat….semangat…dan semangat !!!! Jangan putus asa kalau terjadi kesalahan dan menemui kesulitan. Teruslah belajar dan insyaAllah dalam waktu setengah tahun anda akan mahir dalam menjahit pakaian

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